EATS & DRINKS
By Case Dighero | Photos by Meredith Mashburn
The Big Lieutenant
600 SW 41st St., Ste. 8, Bentonville | (479) 332-4318 | www.thebiglieutenant.com
Sometimes we dine out for entertainment, or for nourishment, or even because we crave something on a menu that has meaning on a personal level. It’s unusual, however, when all of those components culminate into a singular, important experience. The Big Lieutenant in Bentonville has managed to pull off just that. From the mind and palate of husband-and-wife team Trae and Weisi Basore of Bar Cleeta fame, their latest restaurant is a concept inhabiting rare space.
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Foremost, The Big Lieutenant is inspired from family history. Trae’s paternal grandfather, known as Big Lou, was a first lieutenant in the United States Air Force, and those roots are the base for the restaurant’s concept and story. There are markers throughout the experience that bind both the aesthetics and food served — navy and white color schemes set against myriad dishes that are named after family members.
At its core, The Big Lieutenant is a neighborhood gathering place. It’s warm and friendly, with a comfortable dining space nestled against a bustling bar with three large-screen televisions serving craft cocktails, beer and wine.
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If you’re familiar with the quality of detailed grub at Bar Cleeta, then it won’t be a surprise that this talented couple has pulled off a second concept that has an equal, albeit different, impact on the food scene in Bentonville. Every nuance tells a story, and when food and atmosphere have meaning, it makes the experience all that more powerful.
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The food is exceptional, boasting accessible nosh, salads, entrees and some of the best sandwiches in the region. Whether pairing locally brewed Greenhouse Blonde ($6) with a shallow bowl of Pozole Fries ($16), braised pork, pozole broth, pickled onions, cilantro and pepper jack cheese smothered over homemade fries; or sipping an Into the Mystic ($12), Evan Williams bourbon layered with hot honey and lemon over ice, with a Mediterranean Mezze Bowl ($17), Arkansas rice stratified with falafel, pickles, feta, olives and dill yogurt, there’s something for even the most discriminating diner.
The “Snacks” section of the menu also includes wings, fried mozzarella and the ethereal Cleeta’s Meatballs ($14), served with homemade marinara and Parmigiana Reggiano. Another house favorite is the Antipasto Salad ($16), a tossed culmination of wild arugula, pepperoncini, olives, salami, smoked provolone and roasted garlic vinaigrette.
​​​Sandwich connoisseurs can relish in the offerings at The Big Lieutenant, with its delicious varieties of meatball sub, braised pork, spiced brisket and the Big Lieutenant Burger ($19), a double smash patty embellished with caramelized onions, bread and butter pickles, American cheese and Dijonnaise — divine!
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Hearty entrees include braised short ribs, a brisket mac and cheese that is to die for and a gorgeous Pork Schnitzel ($29), a cutlet fried to a crunchy golden brown, then topped with bacon jam and a haystack of arugula with lemon and Parmesan.
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The bar is also worth the trip alone, well equipped with space for 16 guests to gather for chatter or watching sports, offering both canned and bottle service, locally brewed beer and a multitude of craft cocktails. Notables include gin-based Victory Garden ($12), with seasonal garden herbs, and La Hacienda ($13), concocted thoughtfully with tequila, pineapple, cinnamon, lemon and a Tajin rim.
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The Big Lieutenant is certainly more than nourishing entertainment; it’s an experience with meaning on many levels. The only question that remains is precisely WHAT that meaning will have for you when you walk through the door.
Owners Trae and Weisi Basore
