EATS & DRINKS

By Case Dighero | Photos by Meredith Mashburn

TOCA

202 E. Emma Ave., Ste. 213, Springdale | (479) 334-2784

Just like all cuisine born from a specific place, Mexican food does not simply stand alone as something easily defined. It’s not fast-food crunch melts, Tex-Mex combo plates, back-alley tamales — though those certainly have virtue — but rather, is shaped by an interesting diversity that comes from multiple regions, cultures and even the impact that immigration into the United States has had on a beautiful cuisine.

Mexico has 32 distinct regional styles of cooking, and due to successful indigenous foodways and chefs sharing their edible culture, the rest of the world is able to now understand the depth of the cuisine of our southern neighbors. Northwest Arkansas boasts myriad channels for exploring Mexican food, and I’m a fan of just about every iteration available. My new favorite is TOCA, located on Emma Avenue in Springdale. It’s a small, sexy, 65-seat destination with a well-equipped bar, stylish interior dining space and a large balcony overlooking the busy street below, perfect for people-watching while sipping and snacking with friends.

TOCA is the sister restaurant to Rogers’ LOMA, and though similar in design vibes, it’s all its own. Manager Samantha Chavez and her well-versed team have created their own experience based on family history, work ethos, and a respect for a food that has important connections to time and space — specifically, right now in Springdale.

The Emma restaurant scene continues to gain momentum, and TOCA has been the most recent talk of the town. Chavez’s intention of “getting in touch with the authentic culture of Mexico” is evident in every nuance of the restaurant. Even its version of street food, albeit updated, harkens back to something special and familiar, such as the Elote en Vaso ($8), fire-roasted corn layered with cotija cheese, mayonnaise and a whisper of paprika. The Cherry Ceviche Del Día ($12), citrus-cured shrimp boosted into a coupe glass with serrano, lime, cherries and cilantro, is outstanding and perfect when sipping mezcal on the balcony. And speaking of cocktails, there are plenty of wonderful things to peruse from the bar, such as the tajin-rimmed Tocarita ($9), extra special with a splash of hibiscus, or the Caballero Shot ($7), served in a tiny boot that, if consumed recklessly, will kick you in the chaps.

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Al Pastor Taco Plate of Three

TOCA also takes time to serve a number of what are referred to as “Interactive Cocktails” that come in several forms, including smoke bubbles and assistance from your server — all very fun. My favorite is the El Pintor ($24), which comes with a large embossed ice cube, a dollop of several edible paints and a brush that allows you to paint while sipping.

Fear not, there are still plenty of mainstays such as chips and salsa, queso and guacamole at TOCA that are all worthy of a go, especially when celebrating with family and friends. I’m also a mad fan of the Carnitas Burrito ($15), a mammoth wrap of tortilla with slow-roasted and fried pork, rice, black beans, sour cream and pickled jalapenos. The Al Pastor Taco Plate of Three ($10.98) is salty-sweet and utterly delicious, with all the traditional accoutrement of cilantro, red onion, lime, rice and black beans. There is also the Barbacoa Fresco Bowl ($17), made with traditionally prepared beef, sans tortilla but stratified with brown rice, romaine lettuce, black beans, fajita veggies, corn and avocado lime crema. TOCA also offers several desserts; the Flan ($5) is very traditional and quite delicious.

We all have our “go-to” Mexican food destinations, depending on our mood, hunger, and family and friend group dynamic. Well, if you’re in a Springdale State of Mind, TOCA may just be your new favorite.