EATS & DRINKS
By Case Dighero | Photos by Meredith Mashburn
Sestina
200 E. Central Ave., Bentonville | (479) 696-4505 | www.sestinabentonville.com
Nestled within the sleek, modern corridors of Bentonville’s The Compton hotel, Sestina offers an experience that feels less like a traditional chop house and more like a high-velocity culinary rendezvous. If you’re looking for white tablecloths and hushed whispers, look elsewhere; Sestina is about bold flavors, personal service and a palpable, rhythmic energy.
The Compton is exceptional in design and concept; the space feels like “new Arkansas” while still paying homage to its namesake, Dr. Neil Compton, the beloved conservationist known for his efforts in preserving the Buffalo River. The hotel has plenty of culinary places to land while visiting, including a separate bar from Sestina called The Eddy that is also worth experiencing as a hotel guest or if you’re just perusing downtown Bentonville.
Sestina is in the southwest corner of the hotel, a long room with a bustling bar, large tables for groups and smaller perimeter seating for a more intimate experience. The vibe still echoes that of The Compton, modern design with a Natural State feel — comfortable but unique. The cocktails are well crafted, satisfying and pretty. I recommend the Cold Press ($16), a martini of olive oil-infused vodka and gin, vermouth, kina l’aero and bitters, as well as the Roman Holiday ($16), a gorgeous layering of Italicus, limoncello, aperitif, bitters and a sparkling wine float. Also, try the Eclipse ($15), with Campari, mezcal, blood orange, lime and rosemary.
We began with two starters that set a very high bar. The Blue Fin Tuna Tartare ($22) featured fresh tuna elevated with Calabrian chili aioli, capers, chives, shallots and crispy potato chips used as a salty utensil for scooping. Still, our favorite of the two was the Beef Carpaccio ($18). Sliced to a delicate transparency, the beef was buttery and rich, stratified with pecorino, balsamic vinegar, fried capers and truffle aioli.
For the pasta course, we opted for the Radiatori ($28), ruffled pasta tossed in wagyu beef bolognese, San Marzano tomatoes, whipped ricotta and parmesan. These little “radiators” are designed for one thing: sauce retention. The texture was spot-on al dente, providing a satisfying chew that bridged the gap between the light appetizers and the steak course that followed.
Sestina accurately touts itself as a Tuscan steakhouse, cooking over wood fire that ensures a special experience in flavor that is nothing short of culinary nirvana. We were presented with a 16 oz. Dry Aged New York Strip ($98), charred to a beautiful crust while maintaining a consistent, edge-to-edge medium-rare interior. The fat was rendered perfectly — a splash of liquid gold that enhanced every bite. The sides are meant to be shared, and the favorite was the Crispy Artichoke ($10), fried to a deep golden brown, offering an earthy, nutty crunch that cut through the richness of the meat and providing a vital textural contrast to our strip steak.
After a heavy steak, the Mousse di Fragole ($17) was another highlight of our dinner. The strawberry-rhubarb mousse, covered in meringue that was torched tableside, was airy and vibrant, capturing the essence of fresh Arkansas fruit without being overbearingly sweet. It was a sophisticated and energizing finish to a memorable, robust meal. And let’s face it, who doesn’t like a little flame at the end of the night?
Sestina manages to balance the “cool” of The Compton hotel with technical culinary skill that earns its price tag. The innate feeling a guest gets from both The Compton and Sestina is that this combo will undoubtedly be an important, long-lasting cornerstone to the food and hospitality history of not only Northwest Arkansas but the entire Natural State.
