EATS & DRINKS

By Case Dighero | Photos by Meredith Mashburn

Gaskins on Emma

100 W. Emma Ave., Springdale | (479) 334-7676 | www.gaskinsonemma.com

As a rule of thumb, there are those who are steakhouse people and those who quite simply are not. Those who are become loyal followers of their favorite local chop houses and tend to seek out a good steak even when traveling. Steakhouse people are a rare breed, but they tend to have a heightened palate when it comes to specific techniques for cooking meat — and the ways in which even the simplest sides are prepared. But unlike barbecue people, steakhouse people tend to lean on their affinity for an overall experience rather than just the food. I mean, let’s face it, barbecue people are more than content with a roll of paper towels and an RC Cola on an old picnic table if the ribs and pulled pork are good. Steak people… not so much.

The iconic steakhouses in the region run the gamut of fare and décor, ranging from simple and accessible to the more opulent and exclusive. I seek them all out depending on my mood and friend group: Doe’s and Herman’s in Fayetteville before or after a game, Ruth’s Chris in Rogers with business associates, The Grotto in Eureka Springs for weekend getaways, and even an occasional excursion to Jim’s Steak and Chop House in Pittsburg, Kansas, when I’m visiting family in nearby Missouri. Still, the newest steakhouse to enter the Northwest Arkansas food scene might be the one that can fulfill the yearnings of all the steakhouse people in the region — and perhaps the most discriminating vegetarians, too.

Bert and Lisa Jones opened the original Gaskins Cabin Steakhouse in Eureka Springs nearly 15 years ago, and now that the couple have made Springdale their permanent home, they’ve taken on the task of opening a 2.0 version with Gaskins on Emma. Downtown Springdale is enjoying a cultural and economic uptick, and the Jones family has decided to enthusiastically ride along for this exciting period of development.

At the helm is chef Sam Walker, a relative newcomer to the local food scene, having spent tenures at both Theo’s and The Hive at the 21c Museum Hotel in Bentonville over the last few years. Walker’s nuance and technique fit perfectly with the intention to bring the steaks and the famous mushroom soup from the original Gaskins to a new audience while exploring new and old archetypes of the American steakhouse.

Bone Marrow and Beef Carpaccio

Ribeye

The restaurant is an open floor plan, with nearly every seat in the bar and dining room within sight of large windows that peer out onto busy Emma Avenue — perfect for people-watching or for those who simply like to be seen. The lounge is quaint and understated, with bar seating for 10 and a smattering of soft seating designed for sipping and imbibing before or after a big steak dinner. With contemporary and classic blues music wafting throughout the entire space, it seems appropriate that the cocktail menu consists mostly of traditional sips, such as the Smoked Old Fashioned ($13), a stir of Bulleit rye, simple syrup, orange bitters and orange zest poured over a square cube into a smoked class; or a classic Paloma ($13), tequila blanco, lime and grapefruit soda balanced in a Collins glass; or a simple Whiskey Sour ($13).

The heart of Gaskins on Emma beats as a steakhouse, and the menu certainly boasts several expected items done with the subtle touch of Walker’s style. For instance, the Bone Marrow ($27) is presented as a classic long canoe cut teeming with rich, delicious “God’s butter” set beautifully against frisée, Maître d’ butter and a scrumptious homemade shallot jam. I could make a meal out of this alone with a bottle of Jordan Cabernet.

Chef Sam Walker with owners Bert and Lisa Jones

The shareable and small plates sections of the menu include a number of familiar items such as Pommes Frites ($7); Mac & Cheese ($15); Grilled Asparagus ($11); a delicious buttermilk-battered and fried Calamari ($16) topped with fresh greens, pickled peppers and a sweet Calabrian aioli; and a classic Beef Carpaccio ($18), paper-thin, pepper-crusted tenderloin against arugula puree, crispy shallots and pickled mustard seeds.

Burgundy Mushroom Soup

Mac & Cheese

Prime Rib

Calamari

The variety of steaks offered at Gaskins on Emma is limited but delicious nevertheless, simple but solid takes on a 14-ounce Prime Rib ($52), Ribeye ($54), 12-ounce New York Strip ($48), and an 8-ounce filet ($55). Each is served with a baked potato and your choice of a house salad or the highly touted Burgundy Mushroom Soup ($11/$16). For those in the mood for sauce, all cuts may be ordered with either a classic Bearnaise or Au Poivre accompaniment for $5. The steaks are handled gingerly by chef Walker and staff, and the results show in their acumen for churning out delicious, perfectly cooked meat.

Still, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention one of my absolute favorite items on the menu: the Cauliflower Steak ($22). It is the perfect reason to coax one of your vegetarian friends to accompany you to Northwest Arkansas’ newest steakhouse. The thickly cut cauliflower is rubbed generously with harissa spice, set into a sous vide bath before hitting an ultra-high heat char grill, then finished over Moroccan carrot puree topped with Maque Choux, the classic Louisiana “three sisters” medley that includes corn, peppers and onions.

I’m excited to see where Gaskins on Emma lands in the pantheon of iconic steakhouses in the region, especially with a new, fresh chef in Walker, who has energetically harnessed a new way in which steaks — and items like the Bone Marrow and Cauliflower Steak — can be experienced. Steakhouse people…start your engines.